Includes hundreds of design sketches ranging from detailed pattern instructions to rough sketches attributed to the names of French designers and American retailers, including Elsa Schiaparelli, Jean Paquin, Cristobal Balenciaga, Hattie Carnegie, Bonwit Teller, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Bergdorf Goodman. The inconsistency of these notes make it difficult to determine how many of these sketches were based on original designs created by Haon and her team. While Haon is known to have designed for New York fashion labels, including Harvey Berin and Margot Dresses, it is unclear which materials in this series originate from her relationship with these firms.

Also includes a few small sketchbooks that were meant to fit inside the sketcher’s pocket, the majority of the sketches are much larger and feature detailed notes on materials and construction, with many also including fabric swatches of the noted material. Almost every sketch indicates one or more names of sketch artists or designers that were presumably part of Haon’s team, in addition to the date in which they started and ended working on the design. Notes often indicate that the designs shown include basic patterns from another season or group of sketches, directing users to consult other slopers or designers for complete information.

The patterns and design sketches here are noteworthy for having been designed during the Second World War when the United States government encouraged consumer fabric rationing. The War Production Board issued General Limitation Order L-85 on April 8, 1942, which limited fabrics and dictated measurements and silhouette restrictions in order to conserve for the war effort. The majority of the sketches in the Haon collection are dated between 1941 and 1943, and seem to reflect the trend towards creating more streamlined and minimal fashions, at least when compared to the designs produced before and after the war. However, it is uncertain if Haon fully adhered to these restrictions, as notes indicate that many of the garments were constructed of materials that were highly restricted at the time (including wool, silk, and cotton), or include design details that were considered wasteful (including pleating, embroidery, and lace trim).

Overall, this series provides useful information about American fashion during World War Two, as well as the design process practiced by Haon and similar Seventh Avenue designers throughout the early to mid-twentieth century.