Skip to main content

J. Hyde Crawford fashion illustrations

 Collection
Identifier: KA-0155-01

Abstract

J. Hyde Crawford (1930-2013), an alumnus of Parsons School of Design, was a successful fashion illustrator associated with Bonwit Teller department store. This collection is comprised of approximately fifty original drawings and one hundred clippings and tearsheets documenting Crawford's illustration work.

Dates

  • 1960-1980s

Creator

Extent

1.6 Cubic Feet (1 oversize box, 8 oversize folders)

Language of Materials

English

Scope and Contents

The J. Hyde Crawford collection consists of original illustrations by Crawford, as well as tearsheets, posters, flyers and book covers documenting Crawford’s work in the context of their final presentation in print media.

The collection contains mostly women’s, and some men’s fashion illustrations, a few cosmetics illustrations, one children’s fashion illustration, one interior design illustration, and two book cover designs for the publisher Macmillan, Inc. from the 1970s. The illustrations are mainly mixed media of charcoal, watercolor, and ink, and sometimes pastel. Based on the styles and dates on the accompanying tearsheets, the majority of the illustrations are from the 1970s and 1980s, with some examples from the 1960s.

Media outlets represented in the tearsheets include the New York Times, Women’s Wear Daily, and New York World Telegram & Sun. Other publicity material with illustrations by Crawford was done for Bergdorf Goodman, Rina di Montella, Elizabeth Arden Salon, American Airlines, Bonwit Teller, Lord & Taylor, and Galey & Lord. Original illustrations were commissioned by, among others, Perry Ellis, Dior, Chloe, Estée Lauder, St. John Knits, and Lancome.

The majority of the original illustrations are not signed, and none are dated. The illustrations that are signed, are signed as “JHC” or “Crawford.”

Conditions Governing Access

Collection is open for research use. Please contact archivist@newschool.edu for appointment.

Conditions Governing Use

To publish images of material from this collection, permission must be obtained in writing from the New School Archives and Special Collections. Please contact: archivist@newschool.edu.

Biographical note

J. Hyde Crawford (born October 16, 1930, Jacksonville, Florida - died May 11, 2013, Fort Lauderdale, Florida) was an American fashion illustrator known for his work on behalf of the department store Bonwit Teller. Born John Hyde Crawford, Jr., he was never known as John during his professional career, but was instead frequently referred to as “Jay.” Crawford’s father was a traveling salesman for the Continental Can Company, and during Crawford’s childhood, the family moved from Jacksonville to Houston, Texas, and later to Orlando, Florida, where Crawford attended high school. According to an interview with Crawford’s spouse, Charles Andrews, Crawford aspired to become an illustrator for Bonwit Teller as a boy, drawing Bonwit Teller advertisements of his own creation.

Crawford studied fashion illustration at Parsons School of Design and was awarded a European art tour with the president of Parsons, Van Day Truex, which was granted to outstanding students, in 1953. In 1954, shortly after graduating Parsons, Crawford was hired as a freelance artist by Bonwit Teller, drawing newspaper advertisements featuring current fashions sold at the store. During those early years at Bonwit Teller, Crawford came to know the artist Andy Warhol, who worked on window displays at the store.

In 1965, Bonwit Teller asked Crawford to recreate its longtime logo: a bouquet of violets. The artwork that Crawford created in twenty-five minutes was immediately adopted as the company’s signature image, and was to be featured on shopping bags and advertisements for the next twenty years. Crawford was celebrated in 1986 for his work on the logo.

In 1968, Crawford co-founded a fabric and wallpaper company, Quadrille, with abstract artist Anthony Tortora, while continuing to create advertisements for Bonwit Teller. The company became known for its original designs, influenced by current trends in fashion as well as traditional decor concepts. Quadrille is still in operation as of 2022.

In the period of time between the closing of Bonwit Teller’s Fifth Avenue store and its reopening on 57th street, from 1979 to 1981, Crawford freelanced with other department stores, including Lord & Taylor and Bloomingdale’s, but he returned to exclusive work for Bonwit Teller upon its reopening. Bonwit Teller ultimately filed for bankruptcy in 1989 and closed its Manhattan flagship store that same year.

In addition to his art and design careers, Crawford was also a collector of art, a pursuit he initiated in the 1960s, acquiring over the years an eclectic mix of works by artists such as Helen Frankenthaler, John Singer Sargent, Robert Motherwell, and Jean-Léon Gérôme. After Crawford’s death in 2013, nine paintings from his collection were bequeathed to the Orlando Museum of Art, a gift valued at $8.3 million, the largest in the museum’s history. In 1990, the museum hosted an exhibition of Crawford’s fashion illustrations entitled, “J. Hyde Crawford: Fashion Illustration, 1960-1990,” covering his long career as a freelance artist for Bonwit Teller.

References

Andrews, Charles (husband of J. Hyde Crawford), in discussion with Wendy Scheir, Archivist, The New School. September 2022.

Berman, Ann E. “Designing Man.” Art and Auction Magazine, November 1991, 140-145.

Golberger, Paul. “Design Notebook: Bonwit Teller: Lively Interior on 57th Street.” New York Times, April 23, 1981, C10. https://www.nytimes.com/1981/04/23/garden/design-notebook-bonwit-teller-lively-interior-on-57th-street.html.

“J. Crawford Obituary.” New York Times, May 19, 2013. https://www.legacy.com/us/obituaries/nytimes/name/j-crawford-obituary?id=24309936.

Kokkino, Andreas. “At Home: A Chat with Jay Hyde Crawford.” New York Times Magazine, July 8, 2009. https://archive.nytimes.com/tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/07/08/at-home-a-chat-with-jay-hyde-crawford/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0.

Morris, Bernadine. “Fashion Moods Inspire Wallpapers.” New York Times, November 17, 1969, 62. https://www.proquest.com/docview/118612272/67B8F80DE7384D25PQ/13.

Palm, Matthew J. ”Museum Unveils $8.3M Gift of Paintings.” Orlando Sentinel, October 9, 2014, A1. https://www.proquest.com/docview/1609305639/B78A38C3E2E4528PQ/12.

Salvaggio, Denise. “Crawford: Not Off-the-Wall.” Fort Lauderdale Sun Sentinel, September 28, 1990, 5E. https://www.proquest.com/docview/389189002/BFE3950688F248DFPQ/5?accountid=12261.

Yardley, William. “J. Hyde Crawford, Fashion Illustrator, Dies at 82.” New York Times, May 20, 2013. https://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/20/nyregion/j-hyde-crawford-fashion-illustrator-dies-at-82.html.

Arrangement

Arranged alphabetically by folder title.

Immediate Source of Acquisition

Charles W. Andrews, J. Hyde Crawford's husband, donated this collection to The New School Archives in 2014.

Related Materials

Special Collections and Archives at the Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.), State University of New York, holds a collection of J. Hyde Crawford's fashion illustrations. The Crawford Estate divided illustrations between The New School and F.I.T.

An additional illustration by Crawford will be found in the Melvin Dwork papers (KA.0034). Dwork was a friend of Crawford and regularly commissioned interiors illustration work from him.

Title
Guide to the J. Hyde Crawford fashion illustrations
Status
Completed
Author
Agnes Szanyi and Jason Adamo
Date
November 22, 2022
Description rules
Describing Archives: A Content Standard
Language of description
English
Script of description
Latin